| By Peter Martin Bienvenidos 2010 |
Inside La Isla
You can explore lush rainforests, sunbathe on a spectacular postcard-perfect beach or take a lazy trip to the mountains for a country barbecue. Drive across beautiful endless valleys, climb steep mountain passes and cruise down dirt roads along the coast that lead to secret beaches.
Many of Puerto Rico’s 78 towns have quaint central plazas that date back to colonial times and are traditionally anchored by beautifully adorned Catholic churches. The main plazas are not only the centers of commerce, but meeting places for young lovers, families and friends gathering for a social game of dominoes. And if you’re lucky, you may end up in towns as they celebrate their colorful Patron Saint festivals with traditions that date back hundreds of years.
This is the real Puerto Rico with vibrant cultural areas and the ability to satisfy your mind, hunger and heart. The island’s relatively small sized developed roadways and transportation system, makes getting from one place to the next a snap. And with its astounding geographic and cultural diversity, it means visitors can see and do a lot whether it’s in a day, over a weekend or a week.
North
Let’s start along the north coast which runs west from San Juan to Arecibo. The north coast has both natural and man-made wonders, plush resorts and rugged adventures.
Get a great view of Old San Juan from Isla de Cabras National Park, a picnic area and playground on a spit of land on the western border of San Juan Bay, where families and kids fly kites and swim along the sandy beach on its Atlantic side. The seafood restaurants you’ll pass along Route 187 are famous for their traditional Puerto Rican flair and good prices.
A Golfer’s Dream
Further on, you’ll pass Dorado, whose name is synonymous with upscale tourism and state of the art golf courses. Laurence Rockefeller opened up a resort here in 1958 on the grounds of a grapefruit plantation, and for decades the rich and famous, from presidents to movie stars, stayed here. The two elegant hotels on the site closed in 2006 but will be renovated and continue the glamorous Dorado tourism tradition they helped forge.
If golf is your passion, then the Dorado resorts and hotels is where you want to be. Five legendary golf courses, including the Chi Chí Rodriguez-designed facility at the Dorado del Mar Embassy Suites, make Dorado the golf capital of the island.
Grab a beach chair, umbrella and sunscreen and hit Dorado’s beautiful beaches, which are partially protected by coastal reefs. If surf sports are more to your liking, the rugged coastline is also often fronted by powerful waves and offers some great locations such as the legendary Los Tubos beach in Manatí.These beaches are off the beaten path and are some of the most popular on the island. Swim with the locals at gorgeous Cerro Gordo Beach in neighboring Vega Baja.
“ET Phone Home”
If you looking for intelligent life, head to one of the area’s biggest attractions, the Arecibo Observatory, home to the world’s largest and most sensitive radar, radio telescope. The facility’s 20-acre dish set in a sinkhole and surrounded by lush countryside, helps researchers both transmit and receive signals to outer space. Besides, there is the SETI project, which looks for signs of intelligent life in the universe, and they also track meteors and asteroids that might one day pose a threat to crash into earth, as well as other important research. The visitor’s center gives a great overview of the importance of this unique research facility.
The highway west from San Juan heads right through the karsts region, a unique limestone landscaped marked by haystack hills and caves. Its part of the same geographic system that is home to the extensive cave system at the 300-acre Río Camuy Cave Park, which was formed by one of the world’s biggest underground rivers over hundreds of thousands of years. Visitors today can marvel at giant stalactites and subterranean streams at main attractions like Clara Cave and Tres Pueblos Sinkhole.
The Arecibo Lighthouse & Historical Park is a theme park based on Puerto Rico’s history directed at children. With pirate and Taíno Indian exhibits, and an aquarium, the place makes learning a lot of fun, and adults will enjoy it too.
A Tubular Experience
If you’re ready to hang ten, head to some of the world’s best beaches and surfing areas. The west coast of Puerto Rico referred to as “Porta del Sol” runs from Quebradillas on the northwest coast to Guánica on the southwest coast. This land of beautiful sunsets, sandy beaches and emerald clear waters, offers visitors an endless summer. There are dozens of different resort towns running through the region, with charming guesthouses and simple restaurants serving up some of the island’s best seafood.
The Puerto Rican pipeline is a string of surfing beaches running from Isabela to Rincón, which has been famous as a surf sport since hosting a world championship competition back in the 1960s. Among the most popular are Jobos Beach in Isabela, Crash Boat in Aguadilla and Tres Palmas and Domes in Rincón. The region attracts much more than surfers, however, now that it has world-class lodgings and restaurants and offers several outdoor activities, including sailing, snorkeling, scuba, fishing and bicycle tours.
The Rincón Lighthouse Park, located at the far west end of town, has perfect sunsets and is one of the best spots to watch whales breach offshore in the winter. There’s a row of coin operated binocular machines that enhance the experience, as well as a snack bar. Desecheo Island, right off the Rincón coast, is a nature reserve and great snorkel and diving site, with huge reefs attracting varied marine life. The truly adventurous might consider hiring a boat to Mona Island, a nature reserve located halfway between Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic, which has been called the Caribbean Galapagos and is home to giant iguanas, sea turtles and rare birds.
Stepping Back Into History
Mayaguez, a historic port city which was prosperous during the 19th century, has benefited from numerous projects built to host the 2010 Central American Caribbean Games. Destroyed by a great fire in 1841 and an earthquake and tsunami in 1918, the city’s unique architectural style was forged from these rebuilding efforts, which mixed traditional styles with those in vogue at the time of rebuilding.
The city’s elegant central plaza has a huge monument to Christopher Columbus and is surrounded by historic cathedrals and government buildings, retail establishments and lodgings. The west coast city’s biggest attraction may be the Juan A. Rivero Zoo, a 14-acre facility with exciting Caribbean and African wildlife exhibits.
San Germán, south of Mayaguez, is the island’s second oldest town, dating from 1512, and was once the rival of San Juan for power and influence. Visitors today will be charmed by its historic district, with Spanish colonial architecture and tropical vegetation.
The Porta Coeli (Gate of Heaven) Church, built on a hilltop in Romanesque style, dates from 1606 and is the oldest church in the New World. The museum inside has a 19th century statue of the Senora de Monserrate (the Black Madonna) and other fabulous works of art.
Perhaps the prettiest public beach in Puerto Rico is in Boquerón –a charming beach village with guesthouses and small waterfront restaurants that serve fresh seafood. The community is part of the Cabo Rojo municipality, which is full of other great beaches like El Combate and Buyé. It’s also home to a historic lighthouse on a desolate coastal peninsula, swept by wind and surrounded by salt flats and a nature reserve.
A Glowing Review
Farther south is La Parguera, a wonderful family vacation community, with good restaurants and lodging options. There are boat tours at night to the glowing waters of the nearby phosphorescent bay and during the day boats take passengers to offshore islands with beaches and sheltered waters.
The town of Guánica was made famous as the landing site for U.S troops during the Spanish-American War in 1898, but today it is known for being blessed with some of the island’s most beautiful beaches. The public beach at Caña Gorda and the beach beside the community of Playa Santa are just two of many options. From the San Jacinto sector, you can take boast to Gilligan’s Island and other offshore cays, which have great swimming beaches, mangrove canals and rustic picnic facilities.
The Guánica Dry Forest, a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, has been called one of the finest subtropical forests in the world. Walk through striking bonsai-like vegetation, and try to get a look at some of the dozens of rare bird species found here. There are breathtaking views of the undeveloped coast, with some hiking trails leading down to the water.
South
Caribbean Style
One of the great things about Puerto Rico is that it’s possible to swim in the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea in the same day. The Caribbean coastline runs from Guayama in the southeast to Yauco in the southwest, a region rich in Puerto Rican culture and history, with some of the island’s finest historic districts and buildings. In fact Guayama, the town farthest east, probably has the most charming, and immaculately maintained, downtown plaza in all of Puerto Rico.
Ponce, however, “the Pearl of the South,” is the dominant presence along the Caribbean coast of Puerto Rico. Founded in 1692, Ponce has an exquisitely restored historic district, where visitors can see its iconic Creole architectural style, a mix of European and Caribbean influences. Its central Plaza Las Delicias is home to city’s historic cathedral and city hall, as well as the imposing Lions Fountain. The square is also home to the Parque de Bombas (Ponce Firehouse), a black and red, wooden firehouse built in a distinctive Victorian style.
Another important site in town is El Vigía Hill, which contains La Cruz de la Vírgen (Virgin’s Cross) observation tower and the elaborate Serrallés Castle, a restored mansion and museum, with an adjoining Japanese garden. The free city trolley takes visitors from the downtown plaza. It also stops at La Guancha , a waterfront marina and boardwalk that host fairs and concerts. There’s a ferry to Caja de Muerto, a small island with beaches and snorkeling spots.
Near Ponce are the Hacienda Buena Vista, a restored 19th century plantation, and the Tibes Indian Ceremonial Center, a Taíno burial ground dating from 300 AD, with a recreated Taíno village, game courts and dance halls.
Central
If you’re looking for more than just beaches head to Puerto Rico’s central mountains, which are a rarity in the Caribbean. They are a verdant Shangri-La that offers a cool respite from the sun and surf and a chance to kick back and do nothing at all. The area is dotted with historic country inns and charming restaurants. From just about anywhere on the island, there’s a charming mountain hamlet less than an hour’s drive away.
Just outside San Juan, on the way to the Cordillera Central, the Caguas Botanical & Cultural Garden offers visitors an overview of the both the natural and historical wonder of the region and is worth a stop.
Cayey is a favorite spot for a weekend day trip from San Juan. The rural Guavate community has several open air lechoneras, serving roast turkey and chicken, Spanish blood sausage and traditional accompaniments like yucca and green bananas, rice with pigeon peas and fried plantains. The simple, open-air establishments line a country road surrounded by hillsides, forests and streams. Pigs are roasted from spits in front of the restaurants, which have live music on weekends. As the afternoon drifts into evening, diners make for people dancing.
A Nature Lover’s Paradise
The 6,000-acre Carite Forest Reserve, just beyond Guavate, has an abundance of pine trees, huge ferns and palms and a large bird population. There are picnic areas with shelters, hiking trails and the Charco Azul, or blue pond, a natural pond, fed by mountain streams, that is perfect for a cool dip.
Higher above Cayey is Aibonito, a town that got its name from its breathtaking view. The Mirador Piedra Degetau is a stone observation tower that will bring pleasure to your eyes no matter where you look. There’s a picnic area, children’s playground and other amenities.
Utuado is one of the largest towns in the mountains and its home to the several beautiful lakes, including Lago Dos Bocas, where free boat rides are given. Several restaurants on the lake serve local food. Lake Guajataca, further west, is probably the prettiest in all of Puerto Rico.
La Cemi Museum, in Jayuya, is dedicated to the Taíno culture, and is built to look like a symbol of ancient Indian worship. Inside are ancient artifacts that were found in the area as well as Taíno artwork. The town is also home to Piedra Escrita, or Written Stone, a huge boulder in a river that has wonderful examples of Taíno Petroglyphs.
Toro Negro Forest lies near the center of the island, a verdant reserve filled with surging mountain streams, waterfalls and lush tropical cloud forest. Water crashes down the hundred-foot-high Dona Juana Falls and into deep mountain pools perfect for a swim in the west, Maricao is a beautiful mountain town, with historic coffee plantations and charming inns. You can swim in the pools at the Maricao State Forest, which are fed by mountain streams.
East
For a real taste of Puerto Rico’s natural beauty head east, which now rivals San Juan as the center of the island’s tourism industry, with several destination resorts and some of the best sailing in the Caribbean.
The biggest attraction is El Yunque National Forest, the only rainforest under U.S. jurisdiction, a 28,000 acre preserve that has evoked awe among island residents since the time of the Taíno Indians. Giant ferns and towering bamboo create a permanent canopy in much of the forest, which is laced with mountain streams, waterfalls and birds and wildlife, including a population of the endangered Puerto Rican parrot. Major attractions, like Coco Falls and El Portal Rain Forest Center, are right along the main road through the park, but visitors should take the 45-minute hike to La Mina falls to fully experience the forest, and enjoy a swim in cool mountain waters.
Luquillo Beach is famous for its crescent shaped white sands and perfect aquamarine waters. Food kiosks serving fresh seafood, snacks and cold drinks line the public beach. Another public beach worth a stop is Seven Seas in Fajardo.
Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature reserve is a beautiful area of beaches and forests with a historic lighthouse. By day, it’s one of the nicest spots on the island to snorkel. At night, kayak tours bring visitors to the bioluminescent bay to experience the magical glow of its nocturnal waters. Fajardo is a sailor’s paradise with several marinas in town that offer day sailing adventures on luxury catamarans. There is excellent snorkeling, and the trips usually include a stop at a small island.
The East Coast is also the gateway to Vieques and Culebra, the Spanish Virgin Islands, two quaint island towns with world-class amenities and untrammeled beaches. Ferries leave from Fajardo and short airplane trips are run out of Ceiba.
From historical attractions to a nature lover’s paradise, and from pristine beaches to adrenaline pumping adventures, there is something for everyone to discover and enjoy in Puerto Rico.
Inside La Isla
You can explore lush rainforests, sunbathe on a spectacular postcard-perfect beach or take a lazy trip to the mountains for a country barbecue. Drive across beautiful endless valleys, climb steep mountain passes and cruise down dirt roads along the coast that lead to secret beaches.
Many of Puerto Rico’s 78 towns have quaint central plazas that date back to colonial times and are traditionally anchored by beautifully adorned Catholic churches. The main plazas are not only the centers of commerce, but meeting places for young lovers, families and friends gathering for a social game of dominoes. And if you’re lucky, you may end up in towns as they celebrate their colorful Patron Saint festivals with traditions that date back hundreds of years.
This is the real Puerto Rico with vibrant cultural areas and the ability to satisfy your mind, hunger and heart. The island’s relatively small sized developed roadways and transportation system, makes getting from one place to the next a snap. And with its astounding geographic and cultural diversity, it means visitors can see and do a lot whether it’s in a day, over a weekend or a week.











