Making herstory

Women chefs cooking up success in the island’s kitchens

While many men have uttered the misogynistic saying that “a woman’s place is in the kitchen,” throughout culinary history men have managed to dismiss women from the role of master or executive chef. But women have forged ahead and opened inroads around the world in the kitchens of restaurants, making their mark as head chefs, whether these are stand-alone establishments or are in hotels. And Puerto Rico is no exception. Many women chefs are currently making or have already made a name for themselves in Puerto Rico’s kitchens, in charge of everything from developing new dishes to the hectic and challenging task that involves administrating it. 

“It’s true that men have been prevalent as chefs but in the last 10 years or so women have opened a path, and now it is more common to see us in the kitchens of restaurants in different positions, one of these being head chefs,” said Natalia Rivera, executive chef at La Concha Renaissance San Juan Resort located right in the middle of Condado’s bustling tourism district. “We have persevered and won.”

Chef Rivera explained that she has always wanted to be a chef. “It is a vocation,” said Rivera.  

However, that calling may have been a kind of inheritance in the case of Chef Rivera, because she comes from a family where cuisine was always a constant presence. For starters, her father had a food truck, while her aunts engaged in the business of food catering. Still her positions as executive chef comes with other responsibilities that go beyond making new dishes. Especially for someone in Chef Rivera’s position, where she oversees all culinary offers at the resort, ranging from restaurants to in-room dining.

“The great challenge for someone who is a chef is to be constantly learning, discovering new things, because the art of cuisine is always evolving and changing,” said Chef Rivera. “I find that women chefs are very daring and open to new discoveries in the cuisine.”

Meanwhile, in the seaside town of Fajardo, on the northeastern tip of the island, Chef Myrta Perez, heads one of Puerto Rico’s most renowned restaurants, Pasion por el Fogon, whose name could be translated as “passion for the stove.” But in this case, it refers to the traditional and rudimentary firewood cooking method of days past in Puerto Rico. 

“It is definitely a passion,” said Chef Myrta who opened the restaurant in 2001. The restaurant has become one of the most award-winning eateries in Puerto Rico. While by her own admission Chef Myrta has lived quite the eclectic and interesting life, both personally and professional, from being a former nun and an accountant. 

“The key is consistency,” said Chef Myrta.” You must have consistency in everything from the quality of service, the professionalism of your staff, to the quality of the products you use, while always coming up with new dishes.”

Chef Myrta went on to stress that besides consistency, coming up with new dishes is very important in the success of a restaurant.

“The wheel has already been invented,” said Chef Myrta, who has made Pasion por el Fogon famous for her stuffed fish and lobster dishes. “Then you not only have something new to offer clients, but it is also essential if you have a loyal and captive clientele, like we do; you have to be able to offer a different experience so that they don’t get bored.”

In Puerto Rico, women chefs are not only making their mark in restaurants. Take private chef Marta Pascual, for example, she transports her culinary delights and experience to wherever the diners are. 

Chef Rivera explained that she has always wanted to be a chef. “It is a vocation,” said Rivera.

Chef Pascual will cook up her dishes, in the case of visiting clients, wherever they are staying, and if they are locals, wherever their place of residence may be. While she had worked in restaurants in Rincon, the seaside town on the northwestern tip of Puerto Rico, she went on open a food truck that made its name by serving hot dogs with a different twist. Then the pandemic happened and she had to close shop. 

“I had to do something, and while I was apprehensive about it at first, I decided to give being a private chef a try,” said Chef Pascual. Her first clients were a tourist couple who were staying at a guest house in Rincon, and since then she has never looked back. “I truly love going to where my clients are and providing them with a special culinary experience, preparing meals and serving them, and even if they might ask for local dishes, I always aim at giving them a special twist to surprise them.”

Meanwhile, Chef Nasha Fondeur, executive pastry chef at The Condado Collection and the Condado Vanderbilt Hotel, has been hitting the sweet spot to both tourists and locals alike. 

Not what she expected when she arrived at La Concha Renaissance San Juan Resort back in 2008.

“I originally applied for a cleaning position, but they saw that my resume included experience in cake decoration and suggested that I join the team in the kitchen and give it a try,” said Chef Fondeur, who oversees all things pastry, from room service at the properties’ restaurants to special events and banquets. “Now I can’t truly see myself doing anything else!”

Chef Fondeur explained that while she might be the executive chef when it comes to pastries, she is backed by what she calls a first-rate team.

“It’s been a great journey and now I am committed to pay it forward by teaching and delegating the people in my team, because I don’t do this by myself and I want them to be as good or even better than me,” said Chef Fondeur. 

The creation of the pasty offerings is seasonal, according to Chef Fondeur, and is a blend of mixing trends at an international level, with local ingredients such as the tropical fruits that grow in Puerto Rico. 

“Pastry is like fashion, there is always new techniques and dishes,” said Chef Fondeur, adding that Europe is at the vanguard of pastry innovation. “Then it is about how to incorporate and build on those trends at a local level, make something new and creative, never copying but being inspired and always innovating.”

Chef Fondeur said that pastry runs in the family, and cited that the banana cake recipe she learned from her great-grandmother as a little girl is still used at Restaurant 

1919, at the Condado Vanderbilt. As for herself, Chef Fondeur said she is classic when it comes to her favorite pastry or dessert. 

“A tiramisu or a good ice cream does it for me,” said Fondeur. 

For Chef Maria Franco, proprietor of La Cocina de Maria Franco, by the age of nine she was already cooking.

“When I was nine, I used to sneak and grab rice and beans and cook them myself,” said Chef Franco, whose restaurant offers original dishes that reflect fusion of Spanish and international cuisines. “We might add a local, creole touch, but my aim is to give diners a culinary experience that they think they might have only in Europe, but right here in Puerto Rico.”

This experience, said Chef Franco, involve both creativity in the dishes developed for the menu, as well as using only top ingredients and products. For example, in the case of fish, the restaurant works with distributing companies that bring the best catch from places such as Spain, Greece, Japan and the United States. Also, a key ingredient for the success at La Cocina de Maria Franco is the hands-on approach of Chef Franco, not only in the makings of dishes, but also on the experience of diners. 

“I never stay always in the kitchen,” said Chef Franco. “I go out on the floor and talk to the clients to make sure they are having a great experience. For me that personal touch is always essential.” 

When it comes to accomplished women chefs in Puerto Rico Marisoll Hernandez is on that list. Chef Marisoll was the first female to be appointed a hotel Executive Chef in Puerto Rico back in 1991 when she worked at the Condado Plaza.  

She was also a finalist in the 2024 James Beard Awards in the Best Chef: Caribbean category which marked a significant recognition of her culinary talent and the Puerto Rican culinary scene.

But this recognition with the James Beard organization was not her first, she also was invited in 2011 by the James Beard Foundation in New York alongside 24 worldwide culinary master chefs to cook at The Ultimate Melting Pot Gala at Lincoln Center.

“I create original and innovative menus that make something ordinary extraordinary,” said Chef Marisoll, who currently runs Chef Marisoll Catering since 2007 that specializes in private and corporate events. “My culinary creations are unique and influenced by seasonal produce and complex flavors.”