Footnote: Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of San Juan Bautista is the oldest church in Puerto Rico.
Between historical facts and memories of the past, a guided religious tour
Walking on the cobblestone streets of Old San Juan can be a religious experience, especially if the route includes visiting altars, pausing to observe the rich architecture, and daring to uncover the hidden stories behind the various churches the walled city offers.
Certainly, its ancient history invites to reflect on its past. Centuries of faith and culture are embodied in the different temples and chapels that create a labyrinth worth exploring. Regardless of whether you are a local or overseas visitor, there are always secrets to reveal if you venture, not only to appreciate their structures, but also to learn about the past and present of San Juan’s religious world.
Let us begin with the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of San Juan Bautista. The base of the Archdiocese of San Juan, is located on Calle del Cristo. It was originally built in 1521, but after being destroyed by a storm it was rebuilt in 1529. It contains the remains of the conqueror Juan Ponce de Leon and the martyr Saint Pius. It also houses relics such as ornaments and vestments worn by Pope John Paul II during his visit to Puerto Rico in 1984. It is the sanctuary of the patroness of Puerto Rico, the Virgin of Divine Providence. It is also distinguished as the oldest church on the island and the second oldest in the Americas, after the Cathedral of Santa María la Menor in Santo Domingo. Among its most recent constructions is the Altar of the Fatherland, inaugurated in 2011.
On the same Calle del Cristo, right next to Parque de las Palomas, stands the Chapel of Santo Cristo de la Salud. It is a religious, cultural, and architectural heritage. Its construction is based on a supposed miracle. According to legend, around the year 1750, two men were riding horses during a race when one of them was surprised by his inability to brake and fell over a cliff. The man survived, and the miraculous event led to the construction of the sanctuary in memory of the Santo Cristo de la Salud. The building is made of masonry and brick and stands as a small monument with an eye-catching silver embossed altar, and several paintings by the artist Jose Campeche in the room.
The Parish of San Francisco de Asis is located on the same street, San Francisco. In 1756, the Secular Franciscans built a chapel that became the Church of San Francisco de Asis. Despite several transformations, its original brick and masonry structure is still appreciated. It is also known for its crypt (an underground place where the dead were buried). Legend has it that at one point, the remains of the famous painter Francisco Oller were buried there.
The Church of San Jose stands out as the second church built on the island. The land where it is located was donated by the Spanish conqueror Juan Ponce de Leon. Its original construction in limestone and brick dates back to 1532. It was devastated twice during the conquest wars (1598 and 1625). Hurricanes, earthquakes, plagues, humidity, termites, and carpenter ants also contributed to its deterioration. Over the years, it has undergone several improvements, including one led by Cardinal Luis Aponte Martinez between 1978 and 1982. However, the most recent renovation lasted 20 years (2001-2021), interrupted by several events, including Hurricane Maria and the COVID-19 pandemic. This last rehabilitation cost around $11 million. In addition to a convent, it housed the first higher education school on the island, the General Studies of the Dominicans. Its chapel was dedicated to the Virgin of the Rosary. It was also a pantheon for the island’s governors, including Juan Ponce de Leon, under its five crypts. It is recognized as one of the most important Gothic-Renaissance temples in the Antilles.
Over at Puerta de Tierra is the Parish of San Agustin. It was established in the 1880s by the Redemptorist Fathers to serve the residents of the area. Originally, a small wooden chapel was built. After acquiring a 4,400 square meter plot of land, construction began on a school, church, and rectory. These buildings were inaugurated in December 1915. Built with concrete, it was one of the first structures of its kind on the island and incorporated stained-glass windows, which broke with the traditional dark, gloomy interiors. Its architecture is Romanesque and Gothic. For many years, it was one of the few Catholic churches offering services in English.
The Chapel of San Conrado is in La Perla, one of the most central areas of Old San Juan. Its hours are limited, typically opening only on Saturday afternoons. It stands out as a simple one-story structure built with concrete and wood.
The Chapel of Santa Ana is located on Calle Tetuan. It was constructed between 1847 and 1849. Its façade is painted pink and it adjoins the old Convento Santa Ana. It is part of the National Register of Historic Properties, and due to its cultural and historical value, it is one of several structures chosen to be restored with funds from the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA).
On the outskirts of the historic center of San Juan in the Miramar area is the Chapel of Nuestra Señora de Lourdes stands out as an eye-catching neo-Gothic building. It was designed by the famous Czech architect Antonin Nechodoma. It was inaugurated in 1908 and was the first temple of the Methodist Episcopal Church in Puerto Rico. It later became part of the Union Church of Puerto Rico and since 1959, has been a Catholic Church. The structure is made of reinforced concrete with a rustic finish that resembles stone. It has a bell tower and gargoyles that function as drains. In 1984, it was added to the National Register of Historic Places by the U.S. Department of the Interior.
The Convent and House of Health of the Servants of Mary is located right next to La Fortaleza. It is made up of a group of religious women who dedicate themselves to the care and well-being of women recovering from hospitalization. The first eight founding nuns arrived in San Juan in January 1887. They initially took over the Women’s Hospital, which had already existed. Today, it serves as a House of Health for women in recovery.
Follow the chain of history and faith and you will not regret it!
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